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Noodles
are a form of staple food very popular among
the Chinese. They can be made either by hand or by machine and, by the way they
are made, are divided into "cut noodles" or "dried noodles."
Made in whatever way, they may be of different widths, varying from ribbons to
threads. As a prepared dish, they can be served warm or cold, dressed with chili
oil or not, eaten with fried bean sauce, port or chicken sauce, duck chops, soup
of any concoction and what not.
There is also a variety of "instant
noodles", which are precooked, dried and commercially packed. Before
eating, all one has to do is to soak them in hot, boiled water for a few
minutes. They are very handy for a quick lunch in the office or on a journey.
As noodles are always in the form of long
strings, they are symbolic of longevity and are therefore indispensable at
Chinese birthday parties.
Two types of noodles stand out among the
rest and require professional skill. The "hand-pulled noodles" are
probably unique to China and can be made only by a trained cook. He prepares the
paste by stretching it in his hands and, holding it stretched and shaking it
gently up and down four or five times, lets down the middle of the long paste
and swings it in such a way that it twists around itself. He repeats the
stretching, shaking and twisting many times until he feels the paste is firm
enough. Then, on a work board he starts pulling the paste with his arms
stretched. He folds the thick string of paste into two, pulling again. This he
repeats many times over and the strings of paste become longer, more numerous,
thinner and thinner, turning finally into very fine noodles. The whole process
of making "hand-pulled noodles" is done with such magical dexterity
that to watch an experienced cook at it is like enjoying a juggler's show.
Another specialty that one cannot make at
is longxu mian (dragon beard noodles). Commercially they are available fried, so
they are golden in color, crisp to the bite and with a distinctive flavor.
"Dragon beards" are also hand-pulled but are made extraordinarily
fine. It has been calculated that a piece a paste prepared with 1.5 kilograms of
wheat flour can make 144,000 hair-thin noodles, each 0.17 meters long, which
means a total length of 2 kilometers.
At the beginning "dragon beards"
were simply called "beards," but since they caught the fancy of an
emperor and as the dragon was the symbol of all emperors, they have come to be
known as "dragon beards."
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